Day 3
This day kicked off with breakfast at Squeeze, which is a great little cafe around the corner from the Paisano.

After so much decadent food, it was nice to have a light breakfast – oats, acai berries, and bananas
Did I mention we stayed at the Paisano? It is a national historic landmark and famous for being the hotel where the stars stayed during the filming of Giant. It’s a definite must-see when in Marfa, but I would suggest the Thunderbird or, if you’re on a budget, the Riata Inn.

storm rolling into Marfa. I forgot my camera so this might be a good time to apologize for the lack of quality pics. I do think the iPhone did ok though
Marfa, Alpine, and Fort Davis form a triangle and are each about a 25 minute drive from each other. After breakfast, we headed over to Fort Davis to check out the fort. There are also a few shops and historic building to check out in Fort Davis and, if you are there at night, the McDonald Observatory is also worth checking out.
For lunch we headed over to Alpine for lunch at the original Reata.

For those not familiar with Reata, it basically started because the owner of the CF Ranch wanted a good place to eat so he opened Reata in Alpine. It is also located in downtown Fort Worth.

Tortilla crusted tilapia with rice and green beans
After lunch, we headed back to Marfa to look around/relax before our progressive tapas dinner. If you have limited time in Marfa, I can’t think of a better way to try Cochineal and Maiya’s. Both restaurants have exceptional menu offerings, but how do you decide? You don’t. You try a little of a lot of things.

First up at Cochineal was split pea soup with rosemary crouton, followed by fried artichokes, and finished up with a pate plate served with spicy mustard and pickles.

I tried it, but I’m still not a pate convert. Those pickles were delish!
At Maiya’s, she started us off with a goat cheese plate (fresh from local cheesemaker Marfa Maid) and endive and grapefruit salad.

Next out was duck served on grits with asparagus. I don’t like duck and I heard a few others say the same, but we all agreed Maiya’s duck was delicious and didn’t have the gamey taste that it can sometimes have. And I should confess, my plate of duck was clean at the end. Maybe I’m a duck convert.

Quack
As if this wasn’t enough, she sent out an incredibly delicious portobello ravioli that had a spicy bechamel sauce.
And if that wasn’t enough, this incredible tapas dinner ended perfectly with a meringue topped with fresh berries.

Day 4
Today started with breakfast at one of the neatest cafes I have ever visited. Austin Street Cafe is run by a husband and wife team who serve out of their renovated home, which was once owned by Donald Judd.

They are open by announcement or by appointment. If you are headed to town, you definitely need to call ahead to make sure you can try it.

They served us a delicious egg dish topped with black beans and salsa.
Next up was a tour of Marfa with the Director of Tourism, Tex Toler. He took us to the top of the courthouse and gave us a great lesson on what brought people to Marfa and what gives it its unique charm.

Marfa water tower from the top of the courthouse
You also need to check out the Marfa book store on Highland Avenue. It is one of the best independent book retailers in the state.
We had lunch at the Food Shark food trailer located in the middle of town. I don’t have a picture, but I tried the marfalafel and I give it two thumbs up.

We had the opportunity to check out Malinda Beeman and Allan McClane’s Marfa Maid goat cheese farm. This was one of my favorite activities. She is such a treat and it was so interesting to see the process of making chevre and ricotta.

making ricotta
I love knowing the goats are being used to make cheese and not cabrito. 🙂

This trip could not have ended with a more phenomenal evening. We headed over to the CF ranch for dinner under the stars prepared by Mike Micallef, President of Reata. Dinner started with Reata’s wedge salad, which is delicious and can be found in the restaurant’s cookbook.

Next up was the biggest ribeye I have ever seen served with asparagus and cheesey grits.

At this point, a fork stuck in me would have read done, but by now you know dinner doesn’t end without dessert.

And dessert was chipotle brownies cooked in a dutch oven served with homemade vanilla and cinnamon ice cream.
Yep, way done. June and Cynthia also arranged for two astronomers to bring telescopes and high powered flashlights out to the ranch so they could show us constellations, galaxies, and planets. They were incredibly knowledgable and a West Texas sky provides a great canvas for stargazing.
This was such an incredible trip and one I hope you can take. Be sure and check out their website for the other tours they offer.